Whistle-stop Baltic Tour

I've taken part in Cycling for Libraries for several years now. It's taken me to many different places, including Canada last year, as well as Holland, Scandinavia and Belgium. One tour I was gutted to have missed out on was the Baltic Tour of 2012. Last month I took the opportunity to make up for what I'd missed...at least sort of - admittedly I wasn't actually on a bicycle this time. I'd heard all the stories about treacherous Latvian country roads, after all. And also there was SNOW!

Rīga in the snow

Much like the previous December, when I headed to Zürich on a bit of a whim, I again went in search of winter - this time exploring the Baltic states of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. I managed to visit all 3 Baltic countries in a quick 5 day tour, taking in Tallinn (Estonia), Rīga (Latvia) and Vilnius (Lithuania).

So not long after booking, I found myself stepping off the plane and dumping my bags in Rīga (where I would be stationed for the week) then hopping on a bus to go and explore Tallinn. Estonia's national opened as recently as 1993 but is something of a throwback to mediaeval times, architecturally-speaking...

The main entrance hall at Tõnismägi, looking all a bit Game of Thrones!

The library began as the Estonian State Library in 1918, primarily holding parliamentary documents. It underwent significant changes in both its holdings and its premises over the years to become the grand, colossal structure it is today. Its current incarnation now holds over 3.5 million items.

In common with all three Baltic capitals, Tallinn endured periods of occupation, both by the Nazis and later by the former Soviet Union, as well as heavy bombardment during the Second World War. Tallinn in particular is now a hive of startups and has even been described as "the Silicon Valley of Europe". All three cities have seen some sweeping societal and cultural changes as successive regimes have taken over. This is very much reflected in each country's major libraries.

Another similarity connecting the Baltic states is that all are centred around an old town, each dating back to the late Middle Ages (12-15th Centuries). Again each sustained significant war damage but some original buildings remain and the historic towns have now secured protection as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Sunset over the Estonian National Library

Next up it was back to Rīga, where I had a chance to see the incredible National Library of Latvia...and meet up with some Cycling for Libraries pals!

The "Castle of Light" ("Gaismas pils" in Latvian) as it is known locally, opened in 2014. It doubles as a major international conference and events centre; Jonathan Dimbleby held a debate here last year, for instance, as part of the BBC World Questions series.

It's immense!:

Rīga's iconic National Library - home to 4.5 mill. items including the Baltic Central Library

Its pyramid-like structure extends to an impressive 14 floors and features a massive book tower at its core, not unlike the King's Tower at the centre of the British Library. You'll find a 360° virtual tour of the building here: http://www.lnb.lv/en.

I was blown away by some of the exhibitions dotted around the building. Though constantly changing, at the time of visiting these exhibitions included a film/photo montage featuring kids meeting their doppelgänger role models, a woman's account of being exiled to Siberian during the war (hidden within a 'forrest' of rubber tubing) and a toy exhibition showcasing some painstakingly-intricate, handmade items...

Toys from the early 20th Century, including a working mechanical classroom (top right)

Even better still, there's an entire area of the library devoted to those studying for library qualifications! This flip chart prompts visitors to share their thoughts on what they see as ideal qualities for librarians:

I got to contribute to the ideas board in the library school library!

Meeting with Cycling for Libraries colleagues in the children's section of Latvia's National Library

My last stop was Vilnius. I took a bus through Lithuania, watching as the landscape became increasingly whitewashed...and only then did it dawn on me that I'd completely failed to bring anything approaching appropriate footwear with me. My stumble from the coach station to Vilnius city centre resembled the ice rink scene in Cool Runnings ("grip with your toes!" etc....) but I did eventually make it in one piece to the majestic Vilnius University (VU) Library.

VU Library was founded by Jesuits in 1570 and became one of the most important collections in the Soviet Empire in the 19th Century:

The Hall of Pranciškus Smuglevičius is the oldest part of VU Library

Sitting in the heart of the Old Town in Vilnius, VU Library was at one time also an observatory. The top floor of the facility, known as the White Hall, includes some of the original telescopes and other artefacts which have been preserved from the 18th and 19th Centuries.

An original telescope from the former Observatory on top of VU Library

Vilnius University's Littera Bookshop is lavishly decorated with ceiling murals featuring former students and professors. It was painted by Antanas Kmieliauskas in 1978:

Frescoes cover the ceiling of Literra Bookstore at the main Vilnius University campus

A short trip to the suburbs of Vilnius took me from the old to the new. The university only gained independence from Soviet rule after 1990 and the shift in design is dramatic. Below is a picture of the National Open Access Scientific Communication and Information Center, Vilnius University's newest library - opened in 2012:

The National Open Access Scientific Communication and Information Center - Vilnius University

Ooh and I made it to a "Wine Library" too....

With no official Cycling for Libraries tour planned this year, I've made no further travel plans as yet. I'll likely just stick a pin in a map at some point....

Here's hoping for a great 2017 all!

A Little Free Library in Vilnius

#Tallinn #Riga #Vilnius #Baltic #CyclingforLibraries #Wanderlust